Merry Christmas, Happy Kwanzaa, Happy Festivus, and Happy Whatever-you're-celebrating-this-weekend! And to show you how much I appreciate you, here's something extra semi-edible-special!
Isn't it sodalishus!
Happy Holidays! ;-)
Friday, December 24, 2010
The Naked Truth About "Anonymous Critics"... & The Restaurants' Relationship With Them
Just this week, another huge "outing" scandal emerged when a Beverly Hills restaurant, Red Medicine, not only refused to seat LA Times restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila... But then proceeded to post a photo of her as well!
So yet again, the debate rages on about the role of reviewers and the purpose of criticism... And of course, the need (or lack thereof) for "anonymity".
Gustavo Arellano at OC Weekly thinks Red Medicine crossed the line in outing Virbila...
But is it really that big of a deal? Mr. TLV (Mike Dobranski) offered another take after the outbreak of our own critic controversy here in Las Vegas.
So is it that big of a deal that S. Irene Virbila's identity was revealed? Most likely not, since Red Medicine had obviously already figured that out.
But was it wrong for them to treat her the way they did? Absolutely IMHO! That's just not the kind of "hospitality" any restaurant should show any paying customer. PERIOD. And by resorting to personal attacks on Virbila as they kicked her to the curb and proudly beat their chests about it on Tumblr, Red Medicine just looked incredibly petty... And afraid. Seriously, why wouldn't they let her eat? Were they that afraid of her finding their grub unsatisfactory?
Still, despite all the safeguards S. Irene Virbila put into place, she got outed. And maybe it isn't all that big of a deal.
If anything, this seems to prove the point Mike Dobranski made last month about the death of "anonymity" among food critics. So why should local critics like John Curtas be chided for not hiding who he really is? Are food critics really ineffective if they're not "incognito"? And in this age of Facebook, Foodspotting, and Foursquare, is it even really possible to be "anonymous" these days?
Without a doubt, this raises questions of whether 20th century restaurant reviewing standards can really be applied in a 21st century techie foodie world.
So yet again, the debate rages on about the role of reviewers and the purpose of criticism... And of course, the need (or lack thereof) for "anonymity".
Gustavo Arellano at OC Weekly thinks Red Medicine crossed the line in outing Virbila...
I have never cared much for Virbila's writings, either, but the actions of the restaurant is the height of douchery: honestly, you can't take what someone may think of your restaurant, so you won't even allow them to try it? It's your right to do that, but expect everyone to ridicule you.
But their taking and posting of Virbila's picture is a different monster.
Anonymity among food critics was once a much-treasured illusion--we all know the stories of Ruth Reichl putting on wigs, and critics making reservations under different names. But with the advent of social media, should food critics even bother for anonymity? I still believe in that, but I remember speaking at a UC Irvine class earlier this year where a student food blogger maintained that letting people know you're reviewing them does nothing to change how they're going to serve you, a disturbing thought that, like fraternity initiation rituals and streaking, I attributed to his young age.
But is it really that big of a deal? Mr. TLV (Mike Dobranski) offered another take after the outbreak of our own critic controversy here in Las Vegas.
So let’s talk a wee bit about “food journalism.” How can a journalist give a proper story when they have relationships with the chefs? My argument is how can they not? Do readers want industry news through the eyes of what a news room tells them, or through the eyes of someone who witnesses it in the real world? Why do you think these embed reporters during the war were so popular? Because they were showing you shit the way it happened, not through some filter of a news room and a bullshit journalism class.
If more writers spent some time in kitchens as well as talked with people in the industry after hours, there is a perspective of reality that is born that is invaluable. How many facades of how restaurants work are continued to be propped up by “journalists” that don’t experience the real world? That’s why John Q. Public actually thinks Wolfgang Puck is still baking bread and that the guy in freshly starched chef’s whites that come out to shake your hand actually cooked your meal. It’s a false, glamorized view of the reality of a restaurant that is purveyed by these “proper journalists.”
I can’t help that I get recognized when I go to restaurants. Anyone who’s seen me in real life understands that I’m not the most difficult fellow to pick out in the room. But I never ask for special treatment, and I certainly never announce I’m going somewhere if I haven’t been to the restaurant several times unannounced. And when I do announce I’m going somewhere, it’s only in the sense that I usually just try to get my Twitter followers to come hang out in real life. I’ve NEVER called a place ahead of time to tell them I was on my way.
So is it that big of a deal that S. Irene Virbila's identity was revealed? Most likely not, since Red Medicine had obviously already figured that out.
But was it wrong for them to treat her the way they did? Absolutely IMHO! That's just not the kind of "hospitality" any restaurant should show any paying customer. PERIOD. And by resorting to personal attacks on Virbila as they kicked her to the curb and proudly beat their chests about it on Tumblr, Red Medicine just looked incredibly petty... And afraid. Seriously, why wouldn't they let her eat? Were they that afraid of her finding their grub unsatisfactory?
Still, despite all the safeguards S. Irene Virbila put into place, she got outed. And maybe it isn't all that big of a deal.
That whole scene, said San Francisco Chronicle restaurant critic Michael Bauer, sounds "very stupid. I think it's very short-sighted. If it was a good restaurant, they wouldn't be afraid."
But at the same time, Bauer said, "the whole idea of anonymity is almost a moot point these days. … After you've done it for any length of time, a year or more, your image gets out, especially now with camera phones." Virbila said she tries to keep a low profile, not appearing at food and wine events or establishing a Facebook page.
If anything, this seems to prove the point Mike Dobranski made last month about the death of "anonymity" among food critics. So why should local critics like John Curtas be chided for not hiding who he really is? Are food critics really ineffective if they're not "incognito"? And in this age of Facebook, Foodspotting, and Foursquare, is it even really possible to be "anonymous" these days?
Without a doubt, this raises questions of whether 20th century restaurant reviewing standards can really be applied in a 21st century techie foodie world.
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
Quick Bite: Spago at Caesars Forum Shops
For ab fab, gourmet California style pizza, reworked Vegas style, I had to go to Spago! I had to stop at Spago before I left town for a lunch break during my holiday shopping spree, and I just had to order my fave mushroom pizza. It's obviously still my favorite!
I also tried the pumpkin bread pudding for dessert, and I was amazed by the complex pumpkin and spice flavors, the rich custard interacting so well with the hearty bread, and the delectable vanilla creme anglaise and house made ice cream that went so perfectly with the pudding.
All in all, another great lunch at what may be my favorite lunch spot on The Strip!
Style: Elegant Casual
Price: $$$
Open: Lunch & Dinner
The Rating
---
Food: 4.9 (out of 5)
Service: 3.0 (out of 3)
Ambiance: 1.9 (out of 2)
Overall: 9.8 (out of 10)
Outstanding, Destination Eating!
I also tried the pumpkin bread pudding for dessert, and I was amazed by the complex pumpkin and spice flavors, the rich custard interacting so well with the hearty bread, and the delectable vanilla creme anglaise and house made ice cream that went so perfectly with the pudding.
All in all, another great lunch at what may be my favorite lunch spot on The Strip!
Style: Elegant Casual
Price: $$$
Open: Lunch & Dinner
The Rating
---
Food: 4.9 (out of 5)
Service: 3.0 (out of 3)
Ambiance: 1.9 (out of 2)
Overall: 9.8 (out of 10)
Outstanding, Destination Eating!
Tuesday, December 21, 2010
SoCal Report (& Vegas Preview!): Comme Ca
When I arrived in LA this week, I wanted to treat my dad to something special. And because I haven't been to LA and tried a David Myers restaurant in a while, I wanted to come here. So we did.
And from the start, we were quite impressed with what we found. The bread we were served tasted fresh, and the wine was a great vintage.
And from there, it was onto my French Onion Soup. And wow, what strong flavors I found! The sweet onion and savory jus went perfectly with the nutty, slightly sweet melted gruyere. Just wonderful.
I soon had a chance to jump into the gruyere and shallot quiche I ordered. And my goodness, I got another grand slam! The quiche was done just right, and the flavors of the shallot and gruyere went along beautifully, alongside the spring greens providing some refreshing, crisp contrast.
Finally, I jumped into my apple tarte tatin dessert. And yet again, I was blown away! The apple was sliced so thinly, I was wondering how it happened. And even better, the apple was caramelized and provided the perfect, hot, tangy sweet bite that went alongside the cool vanilla ice cream (that I'm pretty sure was house made... It had strong vanilla flavor!).
All in all, I had a great lunch here. And more importantly, so did my dad. (He had the roasted beet and goat cheese salad and vol-au-vent au poulet.) I enjoyed my meal at Comme Ca West Hollywood, and I can't wait to try the new Comme Ca at Cosmopolitan soon!
Style: Elegant Casual
Price: $$$
Open: Lunch & Dinner
The Rating
---
Food: 4.9 (out of 5)
Service: 2.8 (out of 3)
Ambiance: 2.0 (out of 2)
Overall: 9.7 (out of 10)
Outstanding, Destination Eating!
And from the start, we were quite impressed with what we found. The bread we were served tasted fresh, and the wine was a great vintage.
And from there, it was onto my French Onion Soup. And wow, what strong flavors I found! The sweet onion and savory jus went perfectly with the nutty, slightly sweet melted gruyere. Just wonderful.
I soon had a chance to jump into the gruyere and shallot quiche I ordered. And my goodness, I got another grand slam! The quiche was done just right, and the flavors of the shallot and gruyere went along beautifully, alongside the spring greens providing some refreshing, crisp contrast.
Finally, I jumped into my apple tarte tatin dessert. And yet again, I was blown away! The apple was sliced so thinly, I was wondering how it happened. And even better, the apple was caramelized and provided the perfect, hot, tangy sweet bite that went alongside the cool vanilla ice cream (that I'm pretty sure was house made... It had strong vanilla flavor!).
All in all, I had a great lunch here. And more importantly, so did my dad. (He had the roasted beet and goat cheese salad and vol-au-vent au poulet.) I enjoyed my meal at Comme Ca West Hollywood, and I can't wait to try the new Comme Ca at Cosmopolitan soon!
Style: Elegant Casual
Price: $$$
Open: Lunch & Dinner
The Rating
---
Food: 4.9 (out of 5)
Service: 2.8 (out of 3)
Ambiance: 2.0 (out of 2)
Overall: 9.7 (out of 10)
Outstanding, Destination Eating!
SoCal Report: Nello Cucina
So my dad and I were at South Coast Plaza yesterday. And Dad was starting to grumble about his hunger. What was I to do? Luckily, Nello Cucina was nearby. And since I hadn't yet tried any of the Antonello ristorantes, I figured I might as well start now, while I'm in OC.
First off, I should make a note of the slow service we experienced today. I would usually be quite annoyed by what can be considered lack of attention, but considering this is high holiday shopping season and how PACKED (!!!) Nello was today (along with other nearby SCP restaurants), I'm just chalking it to that... And hoping next time I'm back, I'll get more attentive service.
OK then, on to the food! Thankfully, there was nothing to complain about here. The starter bread was very fresh, very soft, and very perfect for gnawing on while waiting as the frantically busy kitchen was catching up on our orders.
Eventually, our bruschetta plate arrived. And interestingly enough, the green onion actually worked! My dad commented that it reminded him of pico de gallo salsa. And yes, in a sense, the bruschetta did taste a bit like "Italianized Pico de Gallo" topped with shaved Parmigiano Reggiano. Oh, the joys of Californication!
From there, it was onto the mains. My dad ordered the "Pizza Siciliana", which meant an artisan thin crust (perfectly crispy and slightly charred outside, soft and chewy inside) topped with sliced artichoke, herbs, and mascarpone cheese. It was quite delicious! And so was my linguine con (basil) pesto, which was perfectly cooked FRESH (!!!) linguine topped with a pesto made from fresh, sweet basil and nutty parmigiano reggiano. This was fabulous, solid, delicious food that startled me.
And if that weren't wonderful enough, dessert just made me even more blissful! I ordered a crostata filled with rich dark chocolate and "built" on a buttery, flaky crust. The vanilla ice cream served alongside was a cool complement, along with the fresh strawberry.
All in all, I was pleasantly surprised by what I found here. Tucked in a corner of South Coast Plaza's West Wing by the Bear Street entrance and bank of elevators, Nello Cucina may just be the best Italian restaurant I've tried so far in OC. :-)
Style: Elegant Casual
Price: $$
Open: Lunch & Dinner
The Rating
---
Food: 4.8 (out of 5)
Service: 2.2 (out of 3)
Ambiance: 2.0 (out of 2)
Overall: 9.0 (out of 10)
Excellent, Worth the Detour
First off, I should make a note of the slow service we experienced today. I would usually be quite annoyed by what can be considered lack of attention, but considering this is high holiday shopping season and how PACKED (!!!) Nello was today (along with other nearby SCP restaurants), I'm just chalking it to that... And hoping next time I'm back, I'll get more attentive service.
OK then, on to the food! Thankfully, there was nothing to complain about here. The starter bread was very fresh, very soft, and very perfect for gnawing on while waiting as the frantically busy kitchen was catching up on our orders.
Eventually, our bruschetta plate arrived. And interestingly enough, the green onion actually worked! My dad commented that it reminded him of pico de gallo salsa. And yes, in a sense, the bruschetta did taste a bit like "Italianized Pico de Gallo" topped with shaved Parmigiano Reggiano. Oh, the joys of Californication!
From there, it was onto the mains. My dad ordered the "Pizza Siciliana", which meant an artisan thin crust (perfectly crispy and slightly charred outside, soft and chewy inside) topped with sliced artichoke, herbs, and mascarpone cheese. It was quite delicious! And so was my linguine con (basil) pesto, which was perfectly cooked FRESH (!!!) linguine topped with a pesto made from fresh, sweet basil and nutty parmigiano reggiano. This was fabulous, solid, delicious food that startled me.
And if that weren't wonderful enough, dessert just made me even more blissful! I ordered a crostata filled with rich dark chocolate and "built" on a buttery, flaky crust. The vanilla ice cream served alongside was a cool complement, along with the fresh strawberry.
All in all, I was pleasantly surprised by what I found here. Tucked in a corner of South Coast Plaza's West Wing by the Bear Street entrance and bank of elevators, Nello Cucina may just be the best Italian restaurant I've tried so far in OC. :-)
Style: Elegant Casual
Price: $$
Open: Lunch & Dinner
The Rating
---
Food: 4.8 (out of 5)
Service: 2.2 (out of 3)
Ambiance: 2.0 (out of 2)
Overall: 9.0 (out of 10)
Excellent, Worth the Detour
Monday, December 20, 2010
Greetings from "The OC", Bitch!
If you ever wondered where I got my crazy from, then wonder no more.
And amidst all the crazy here, I am finding some time to eat. In the coming days, I'll let you know about what's cooking.
And of course, I'll keep an eye on all the big news coming out of Vegas. Oh jeez, I'm already excited about going home!
But in the mean time, I guess I'll have to settle with this.
;-)
Thursday, December 16, 2010
Betting on Michelin Stars: La Cave at Wynn
Next up for review is La Cave, the brand new wine bar and "Modern American Tapas" joint at Wynn. And as (what hopefully will be) always, the photos are just below the review. Enjoy! :-)
---
Last week, I decided I might as well try out Wynn's new tapas bar for late lunch/early dinner. And hey, why not? It's already getting plenty of buzz, and I was already getting mighty hungry.
And thank goodness curiosity got the best of me! I started off with the Buttermilk Bleu Cheese plate, and a lovely wedge of this stinky goodness arrived alongside toasted mini baguette slices and fig jam. For some reason the bread was at room temperature, but that was quickly forgiven when I dove into the heavenly cheese paired with that divine fig jam! (Hopefully in the future, they'll make fresh batches of toasted baguette.)
From there, it was onto my pizza... err, "flatbread". I ordered a flatbread with roasted tomatoes, micro mozzarella, and capers, which is essentially a pizza margherita shaped more rectangularly, and with the basil swapped out in favor of the capers. But whatever one wants to call it, one can't deny it's tasty! The roasted tomatoes were sweet and tangy, and the salty capers provided the perfect balance and contrast. The mozzarella melted beautifully, and the crust was soft and pillowy. This definitely makes my "Top 10 Pizzas in Vegas" list!
And of course, what good meal is complete without dessert? I couldn't help myself, I HAD to try the "American Chocolate Cake". And trust me, if you're the kind of American who can never get enough chocolate, you'll LOVE this cake! Actually, there's a thin layer of cake hidden somewhere in the midst of a beautiful mold of chocolate mousse covered in chocolate ganache. Oh, and there's a thin chocolate wafer cookie on the bottom. And oh my, this was so perfectly sweet and smooth and creamy that I had to hold myself back from licking the plate!
All in all, my first impression of La Cave was quite strong. Again, my one small quibble was over the toasted baguette, and that can easily be fixed. Otherwise, the food was terrific, service was strong, and I'll likely be back soon to take full advantage of their wine list!
Style: Elegant Casual
Price: $$$
Open: Lunch & Dinner
The Rating
---
Food: 4.7 (out of 5)
Service: 3.0 (out of 3)
Ambiance: 2.0 (out of 2)
Overall: 9.7 (out of 10)
Outstanding, Destination Eating!
---
Last week, I decided I might as well try out Wynn's new tapas bar for late lunch/early dinner. And hey, why not? It's already getting plenty of buzz, and I was already getting mighty hungry.
And thank goodness curiosity got the best of me! I started off with the Buttermilk Bleu Cheese plate, and a lovely wedge of this stinky goodness arrived alongside toasted mini baguette slices and fig jam. For some reason the bread was at room temperature, but that was quickly forgiven when I dove into the heavenly cheese paired with that divine fig jam! (Hopefully in the future, they'll make fresh batches of toasted baguette.)
From there, it was onto my pizza... err, "flatbread". I ordered a flatbread with roasted tomatoes, micro mozzarella, and capers, which is essentially a pizza margherita shaped more rectangularly, and with the basil swapped out in favor of the capers. But whatever one wants to call it, one can't deny it's tasty! The roasted tomatoes were sweet and tangy, and the salty capers provided the perfect balance and contrast. The mozzarella melted beautifully, and the crust was soft and pillowy. This definitely makes my "Top 10 Pizzas in Vegas" list!
And of course, what good meal is complete without dessert? I couldn't help myself, I HAD to try the "American Chocolate Cake". And trust me, if you're the kind of American who can never get enough chocolate, you'll LOVE this cake! Actually, there's a thin layer of cake hidden somewhere in the midst of a beautiful mold of chocolate mousse covered in chocolate ganache. Oh, and there's a thin chocolate wafer cookie on the bottom. And oh my, this was so perfectly sweet and smooth and creamy that I had to hold myself back from licking the plate!
All in all, my first impression of La Cave was quite strong. Again, my one small quibble was over the toasted baguette, and that can easily be fixed. Otherwise, the food was terrific, service was strong, and I'll likely be back soon to take full advantage of their wine list!
Style: Elegant Casual
Price: $$$
Open: Lunch & Dinner
The Rating
---
Food: 4.7 (out of 5)
Service: 3.0 (out of 3)
Ambiance: 2.0 (out of 2)
Overall: 9.7 (out of 10)
Outstanding, Destination Eating!
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