BREAKING: Las Vegas Enters 21st Century, Markets to LGBTQ Tourists

(Originally from Nevada Progressive)

I have been wondering for some time when the Las Vegas gaming/tourism powers that be would wake up and smell the lavender. I guess they're finally getting there.

Print ads, websites and YouTube spots tout the offerings of Wynn Las Vegas, Paris, Luxor, Mandalay Bay and several other Strip operators that have steadily increased their efforts to lure dollars that reflexively went to the traditionally open-minded resort destinations of Palm Springs, Key West, Miami Beach and Provincetown. The LVCVA produces suggestive ads—two women with shapely legs playing footsie, a pair of fit young men holding hands on a golf course as Wynn Las Vegas looms in the background. They’re alluring images at the start of what Wynn Las Vegas marketer Michael Weaver dubs the “post-gay consumer marketing world,” a period when ad agencies seek to reach individual customers with the promise of luxury, entertainment, good food and sensuality—a classic quartet of offerings on the modern-day Strip.

Las Vegas consistently ranks among the top business and leisure destinations for the 4,296 LGBT travelers surveyed by Community Marketing. New York, San Francisco and Las Vegas typically hold the top three spots, with lesbians between the ages of 18 and 54 choosing Las Vegas as their favorite getaway. Gay men widely preferred New York City and San Francisco. “Las Vegas is really show-driven and those shows have a very gay spin—Cher, Bette Midler, Cirque du Soleil, Elton John. It’s good for Las Vegas to bring them in,” says Community Marketing’s [David] Paisley.

“Las Vegas is its own animal. It’s true that Vegas doesn’t have its own gay neighborhood like other cities do,” Paisley says, “but from a tourism perspective, Las Vegas is about the Strip. Gays and lesbians are coming to Las Vegas for the same reason everyone is coming to Las Vegas.”

So LVCVA finally has a full LGBTQ travel site up, and other casinos and tourist attractions are catching up to what Caesars, Wynn, and MGM have been learning over the last decade.

Speaking as a gay person myself who follows what's happening on The Strip, I can tell you there's still far more work to be done to let queer folk feel comfortable enough to visit Las Vegas and visit more often. Even though I often walk blithely around my Henderson 'hood with an "I <3 Castro" or HRC t-shirt, many gay couples are still afraid to hold hands while walking Las Vegas Blvd. What's wrong with this picture?  Unfortunately, part of the reason why many LGBTQ tourists still feel ambivalent about Vegas is because of the huge mistake Nevada embarked upon a decade ago when Question 2 passed and discrimination was written into the Nevada Constitution. And though we've now somewhat corrected the situation with domestic partnerships and long awaited progress on transgender civil rights, that's still far from full equality.

Another part of the problem is that until very recently, there was never really talk of a comprehensive plan to fully market Vegas as "THE gay travel destination". Even local business leaders recognize we have a problem. We are more than just nightclub revelers and kinky sex machines. We want to sleep, we want to eat, we want to shop, and we want to explore.

At least we're now seeing LVCVA make the effort. That's a big start, and we're now moving in the right direction. Now if we can only get rid of that pesky Question 2...

Burger Bar

It was an old favorite in need of a return visit. I just had to stop at Burger Bar at Mandalay Bay last weekend with a friend and catch up on some old favorites.

I still remember the first time I was there and I first tried their veggie burger. Wow... Something that wasn't taken from a freezer and formed in some factory many moons ago? It was truly love at first bite. ;-)

And amazingly enough, I'm still in love. Who knew pumpkin, potatoes, caramelized onions, green peas, lentils, and brown rice could all come together so beautifully in a meatless burger patty?











The sweet potato fries were also quite enjoyable. They were soft inside, but not soggy or overly greasy outside. And they had a subtle sweetness that kept me on edge... In a good way.

So it was most definitely a happy return to Burger Bar last week. I'll just have to remember to return more often for my other fave burger on The Strip.

Style: Beach Casual Cal-Ital
Price: $
Open: Breakfast, Lunch, & Dinner

The Rating
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Food: 4.8 (out of 5)
Service: 3.0 (out of 3)
Ambiance: 1.9 (out of 2)
Overall: 9.7 (out of 10)
Very Burger-licious! :-D

La Cave Revisited

Remember my fabulous time at La Cave in December, right after it first opened? Well, I hadn't had a chance to visit in a while... But I finally returned a few days before I left town. And much to my delight, the food still delighted me. And to make my evening even better, I discovered its pool view terrace!

Where should I begin? How about drinks! I ordered a mojito, and I got a good wallop of good rum! It was sweet and refreshing, but not sickly sweet and showing off enough lime tartness to keep it interesting and fun.

I had another flatbread/pizza, but I still wanted to switch it up, so this time I ordered one with prosciutto, caramelized onions, arugula, and a light cream sauce. It all came together beautifully. The salty prosciutto, sweet onions, and pepper arugula made for a great contrast of flavors. And the bread still tasted as fresh and soft as ever.

What also put a smile on my face is perhaps my new favorite dessert, the American Chocolate Cake at La Cave! I know I'm a sucker for nearly anything chocolate, but I have a hard time seeing anyone turn away all that rich chocolate ganache covered in rich chocolate fondant. It's just so sinfully delicious!

And now that summer pool season is raging in Las Vegas, do try to snatch a table outside if dining around sunset. The views of Wynn's breathtaking pool are captivating. For a moment, one might forget about the sweating hoi polloi gorging on footlong margaritas and nasty buffets when noshing here. ;-)


Style: Elegant Casual

Price: $$$

Open: Lunch & Dinner


The Rating

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Food: 4.9 (out of 5)

Service: 2.9 (out of 3)

Ambiance: 2.0 (out of 2)

Overall: 9.8 (out of 10)

Outstanding, Destination Eating!

Holstein's... Revisited

I know, I know, it ended up being nearly a month! I'm ashamed of myself. :-(

But after nearly a month of being tied down by other obligations, I'm back... And I recently had a chance to revisit a new favorite.











And once again, my Urth Burger was out of this world! I'm still trying to figure out how Holstein's manages to make a veggie burger so "meaty", so bursting with farm fresh veggie flavor, so absolutely delicious! It's really great on its own... Really! But if you're not a strict vegan, add the Point Reyes Bleu Cheese for an even more otherworldly experience.

The fries were again super fresh. The popcorn was still addictive. Oh, and this time I had the chance to try a chocolate malt. And jeez, was that rich and bursting with down home chocolate goodness!

Someone help me. I think I'm falling in love with this place. ;-)

(For the first time EVER, I'm giving a perfect score to a non French-i-fied high-society uber-bucks fine dining joint. Lordy help me!)

Style: Upscale Burger Joint
Price: $$
Open: Lunch & Dinner

The Rating
---

Food: 5.0 (out of 5)
Service: 3.0 (out of 3)
Ambiance: 2.0 (out of 2)
Overall: 10.0 (out of 10)
Have I found "THE Perfect Burger"??!!

My First Take on PJ Clarke's

Bar food. We hate to admit it, but we absolutely love it. And I was finally able to stop at a bar with some exemplary bar food that... Well, let's say they're raising the bar.

For quite some time, I've been hearing about this place. But last week, I finally had a chance to taste the magic of PJ Clarke's for myself. I was at a special event, and I had a very special opportunity to sample all sorts of goodies for dinner.

Before dinner, I tried a few appetizers. (Disclaimer: I couldn't snap photos of these.) The bacon wrapped dates had the perfect marriage of sweet, savory, and salty. The mini sliders were quite beefy, which should satisfy just about everyone who enjoys the flavor of that ever elusive "All American Beef Burger". And I don't think I've had so much fun with tater tots as I did with PJ Clarke's!

From there, it was onto dinner... And all the kitchen mayhem! For some reason, the servers were having a hard time serving dishes where they needed to be, leading to a bit of mass confusion. Some dishes were served out of order, and at one point it was quite difficult to order a drink. Maybe this was just because of the event? Maybe it was just a super busy night and the restaurant was overwhelmed?

Well, at least the food itself provided no confusion or consternation!

The salads weren't bad, though they weren't phenomenal either. My friends and I were served a spring salad with standard raspberry vinaigrette, and some sort of "chicken salad" with dandelion greens and shaved parmesan. I guess John Curtas was right in that regard.

However, from there onward, I was in for some amazing grub. We were served two giant buckets full of steamed mussels, and my goodness did they taste fresh! And by fresh, I mean these tasted direct from the ocean. I have a feeling I need not worry about being served nasty, "freezer burned" seafood here.

The mac and cheese followed, and then I knew I was in LOVE! At first, I didn't quite know what to think. I'm used to stick-to-one's-ribs thick mac and cheese, so I was surprised when I saw this mac & cheese with more of a soupy sauce. However as soon as I tasted it, I was smiling. The sauce may have been loose, but it was still quite rich and full of fresh, sweet peas and fatty bacon.

Following the mac and cheese, I was surprised by the crab cake. It was full of sweet crab meat, but not too heavy or bogged down by too much mayonnaise. I've usually not been into crab cake, but I was actually liking this!

And then, dessert arrived. Oh jeez, where do I start! The chocolate pudding was quite divine, as it had just the right amount of sweet, a rich and deep chocolate flavor, and a lovely house made whipped cream topping. The bourbon bread pudding was quite hearty, and dazzled with its hearty custard and "bejeweled" raisins. Oh, and the apple cobbler just screamed, "America, F*ck Yeah!" to me... And yes, that's a compliment. ;-)

Were there some bumps in the road on my journey to great American Bar Food at PJ Clarke's? Honestly, yes. Hopefully, the service kinks will be worked out and the salads will be more interesting. Otherwise, the (rest of the) food was quite solid... Enough to catapult it to the best of the bunch. And perhaps as PJ Clarke's grows into its new digs at The Forum Shops, it will become as much of a Vegas landmark as it already is a New York legend.

Style: Gastropub
Price: $$$
Open: Lunch & Dinner

The Rating
---

Food: 4.7 (out of 5)
Service: 2.4 (out of 3)
Ambiance: 2.0 (out of 2)
Overall: 9.1 (out of 10)
Good Eats, Worth the Trip

As Cosmo Goes... The. Best. Burger. EVER??!!

Back in 2009, I had my first experience at LBS, an upscale "burger joint" way out in the mysterious hinterlands often referred to as Summerlin. I've constantly been amazed by the superior quality of the food, the interesting vibe of the place, and the surprising value they offer...

But can the folks behind LBS score a successful sequel on The Strip? So far, I'm inclined to say yes. Holstein's really took so much of what I love at LBS, and takes it to an even higher level at Cosmopolitan.

My recent lunch out was off to an interesting start with a small bucket of "truffle popcorn" awaiting me. I must admit the popcorn was quite addicting. It had great flavor without being too greasy.

Pretty soon, my cocktail arrived. I ordered a Blood Orange Cosmo, and it arrived full of great, refreshing, sweet orange flavor. Just what I needed.

Yep, this was just what I needed to relax and whet my appetite for more. And oh my goodness, did I get more! My "Urth Burger" was a house made vegan patty that didn't taste like "imitation meat" or "random veggie blob", but rather a hearty patty full of great flavors and complemented well by the nice bun and tangy Point Reyes Blue Cheese (that I added onto the burger). This, for me, is the hallmark of a truly great burger palace. If it can take the often maligned "veggie burger" and turn it into this wonderful, edible masterpiece, than it can do pretty much anything!

The shoestring fries were also a nice complement on the plate. They tasted fresh. They weren't overly greasy. They were addictive.

Of course, no great lunch is truly great without a stunning dessert, so I gave into temptation and ordered the "chocolate slider with fries". Basically, it turned out to be a plate of a "slider" consisting of rich chocolate ganache sandwiched between two delectable chocolate cookies. YUM! And even better, it came with these pillowy soft and delicately fried churro "fries" along with a cup of tangy strawberry "ketchup" for dipping. Was it gimmicky? Perhaps? But was it so damned good that I really didn't care? ABSO-F*CKING-LUTELY!!!

So what else can I say about Holstein's? The food was phenomenal. The atmosphere was groovy. The service was quite friendly. And I finally found the perfect "veggie burger". Did I just find heaven? ;-)

Style: Upscale Burger Joint
Price: $$
Open: Lunch & Dinner

The Rating
---

Food: 4.9 (out of 5)
Service: 3.0 (out of 3)
Ambiance: 1.9 (out of 2)
Overall: 9.8 (out of 10)
Outstanding, Destination Eating!

Money Can't Buy You Class... But It Will Buy You Ass

Remember the discussion that ensued when Wynn Las Vegas suddenly and shockingly decided to close Alex last month?

Well, this just confirms what we were saying all along.

Beverage revenue rose 7 percent during the last fiscal period, to $909.6 million, for the 39 Strip casinos generating annual revenue of at least $1 million. Strip beverage revenue rose 2 percent in fiscal 2009. The Strip accounted for 66 percent of beverage revenue from the state’s highest-grossing casinos.

The booming nightclub industry in Las Vegas, including the emergence of a 24-hour, pool-centered party scene and a slew of elaborate new clubs and drink menus, is partly responsible for the increase, analysts say.

New clubs and lounges at CityCenter, Encore and Hard Rock Hotel, which opened a rooftop bar and pool as part of its expansion last year, are among the new venues noted in the report.

Today’s opulent nightclubs offer a potentially more expensive experience than the more mundane drinking holes of years past, said Brian Gordon, a principal with Las Vegas consulting firm Applied Analysis.

During conference calls with Wall Street analysts last year, Wynn Resorts CEO Steve Wynn highlighted the runaway success of Surrender nightclub and the attached Beach Club at Encore, which opened May 25.

The performance of its nightclub venues in Las Vegas stands in “sharp contrast to the softness in the market,” while generating high profit margins, Wynn told investors. The company reported a 16 percent increase in food and beverage revenue in the third quarter, in large part because of the new venues, surpassing revenue generated in other departments, with the exception of gambling.

It's all about the money, honey. And right now, the money is being made in the day/nightlife industry. That's why MGM, Caesars, Wynn, and LVS are all falling over each other to open more clubs and revolve more and more of the other amenities in their casinos around their nightclubs.



When just looking at the bottom line, why should Steve Wynn care about maintain extraordinary culinary standards at his hotels' restaurants when the money is being made at Surrender, XS, Encore Beach Club, Tryst, and Blush, and Wynn executives suspect most within the target demographic group for their clubs don't really care for the "fru-fru eating" offered at restaurants like Alex? Never mind that Wynncore now risks losing its entire foodie reputation. It's all about the dollar signs, baby.

So are we supposed to expect more of this in the future? Or is this just another fad that will change and/or die? And does Las Vegas' reputation as a great foodie destination hang in the balance?

As Cosmo Goes... China Poblano!

Below is the review for the very first Cosmopolitan restaurant I tried last week! Photos of both the restaurant and the casino are below. Enjoy! :-)

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I just had to try it. I was drawn to it. Chinese food. And Mexican food. And avant garde cuisine. By Jose Andres. All under the same roof!

Many adjectives can describe the food here, but I suspect "boring" will never be one of them. Since I needed a cool libation after a rough morning, I was ready for a margarita. My "Salt Air Margarita" soon emerged... With salt foam on top! Very interesting, and very yummy. So far, so good.

And from there, it just kept getting better. The queso fundido came out piping hot, and served alongside fabulous housemade tortillas. It was divine.

Next up was an eggplant dish that I'm still trying wrap my head around. It was sauteed with black garlic and served with this interesting, slightly sweet soy sauce. The black garlic was quite pleasant and sweet, and the eggplant was very tender.

And finally, there was dessert. Because my curiosity got the best of me, I had to taste for myself the "coconut tapioca balls" with passion fruit and mandarin orange sorbet. OMG, this was something else! I had my doubts, but this made me a believer in tapioca pudding again... Especially when it's combined with floating balls of coconutty creaminess and perfect orange sorbet!

All in all, my first impression of China Poblano was quite good. I look forward to returning soon and exploring more of the fascinating menu here.

Style: Comfortably Casual
Price: $$$
Open: Lunch & Dinner

The Rating
---

Food: 4.9 (out of 5)
Service: 2.8 (out of 3)
Ambiance: 1.8 (out of 2)
Overall: 9.5 (out of 10)
Outstanding, Destination Eating!

Final Thoughts on Alex

In the coming days, I'll finally be sharing with you some good eats I've enjoyed this past week. But before I go there, I want to share some final thoughts on this weekend's saddest event. Eric Gladstone nailed it IMHO in Las Vegas Weekly.

[...T]his isn’t just another closing, because even on a street loaded with star chef dining, Alex wasn’t just another restaurant. It began life as the crown jewel of the dining-focused Wynn resort. It’s arguably the most lavishly romantic and elegantly served restaurant on the Strip. It’s also helmed by Alex Stratta, a James Beard-award-winning chef who trained with Alain Ducasse and Daniel Boulud and legitimized Bellagio’s ambitious fine-dining program before moving with Steve Wynn to his new namesake. It represented, almost uniquely, not just an established star bringing his talent to town, but also one making his reputation exclusively in Las Vegas, with plenty of awards and accolades to show for it.

So what happened? “High-end French dining is not what people want these days,” was virtually the only explanation from Wynn Resorts PR. Considering that Wynn has long been considered a visionary when it comes to dining in Las Vegas (now a major business component, thanks to him), that’s a statement to be taken with some seriousness. But inside sources indicate the closing of Alex doesn’t signify a change in diners’ desires so much as a change in the willingness of a resort to subsidize a business that had not been highly profitable for some time—if ever. At least part of that failure must be blamed on marketing. Alex undoubtedly suffered from a perception—even within the Wynn organization—as “high-end French dining,” which it wasn’t, entirely. The restaurant was also tucked away in the property, without much promotional signage. [...]

Of course, every Vegas resort makes decisions about how to reinvest in itself. Wynn recently placed big bets on Encore Beach Club and Surrender; signed Garth Brooks and Twyla Tharp’s Sinatra: Dance With Me; initiated a major room remodeling; and opened La Cave wine bar and Lakeside Grill. Meanwhile, Chef Richard Chen, who made Wing Lei one of the country’s only Michelin-starred Chinese restaurants, quietly departed, and former XS nightclub co-owner Victor Drai was rather loudly bought/ushered out. Now comes news that talented master baker Frederic Robert has left, too. A well-sourced rumor claims the next restaurant there will be—wait for it—a gourmet burger concept.

Taken as a whole, these moves send a clear message: The patron who would best appreciate Alex is no longer the target of Wynn/Encore.

So what does this mean? Let me explain.

Early on, Steve Wynn wanted to outdo his own amazing work at Bellagio (including luring living legends like the Maccionis and up-and-coming culinary superstars like Julian Serrano to his new casino) by upping the luxury ante at Wynn Las Vegas to something we had never seen before. And yes, he was originally targeting a “more mature” clientele with top-notch restaurants like Alex, Daniel Boulud, and Wing Lei. But as The Great Recession raged on in 2009, room prices hit rock bottom, and Wynn had to offer deep discounts to keep occupancy high at Wynn LV & newly opened Encore, Mr. Steverino looked at what was happening elsewhere along The Strip and realized what he had to do to return his Las Vegas casinos to profitability.

(Hint: It wasn't about the food at the restaurant any more, but the party at the club later in the night.)

Without a doubt, Wynncore is still catering to high-end tourists. Look at their current room rates, store lineups, and restaurant prices for that matter. But instead of appealing to mature gourmands, Wynncore thinks its bread is better buttered by the "MTV celebutante wannabe" crowd hoping they can catch a glimpse of the newest, “hottest” reality stars shaking their groove thangs at Tryst/XS/Surrender. Basically, I think Wynncore is becoming a Strip five-star version of Hard Rock/Palms, if that makes any sense.

Frankly, it's a disturbing trend that frightens me. And we're not just seeing it at Wynncore, although it seems they're now leading the way in homogenizing and "casualizing" all their good eats. John Curtas offered a good quote in his last piece on Alex.

The rush to less formality, smaller plates and more options may, in the long run (and despite the hype of a brave new world of restaurant dining), signal nothing more than a retreat (and an excuse to retreat) from quality.

So am I anti-"tapas"? Hell to the no! Sometimes, I'm just in the mood for small plates. The tapas/small plates concept itself is not a bad thing.

Am I anti-"luxury fast food"? Honestly, this is something I'm still wrestling with. When well done, a "gourmet burger joint" or "pizza palace" can be quite delicious. But sometimes, I just have "slider" overload and I can't handle any more variations of the basic Italian American pizza "flatbread".

What I am genuinely concerned about, however, is when good restaurants are being sacrificed for the sake of "trendy" food fads. Contrary to what some may think, I believe there will always be room for good fine dining. And though some may forget this, one of Las Vegas' top attractions remains our array of top-notch gastronomic palaces. Maybe closing Alex will save Wynn Las Vegas money in the short term, but in the long term this may do Wynncore some real damage. They're only ripping apart their own culinary reputation in letting their fine dining lineup fall apart, and hopefully more Vegas casinos don't follow suit

Quick Bite: Spago at Caesars Forum Shops

For ab fab, gourmet California style pizza, reworked Vegas style, I had to go to Spago! I had to stop at Spago before I left town for a lunch break during my holiday shopping spree, and I just had to order my fave mushroom pizza. It's obviously still my favorite!

I also tried the pumpkin bread pudding for dessert, and I was amazed by the complex pumpkin and spice flavors, the rich custard interacting so well with the hearty bread, and the delectable vanilla creme anglaise and house made ice cream that went so perfectly with the pudding.

All in all, another great lunch at what may be my favorite lunch spot on The Strip!

Style: Elegant Casual
Price: $$$
Open: Lunch & Dinner

The Rating
---

Food: 4.9 (out of 5)
Service: 3.0 (out of 3)
Ambiance: 1.9 (out of 2)
Overall: 9.8 (out of 10)
Outstanding, Destination Eating!

Betting on Michelin Stars: La Cave at Wynn

Next up for review is La Cave, the brand new wine bar and "Modern American Tapas" joint at Wynn. And as (what hopefully will be) always, the photos are just below the review. Enjoy! :-)

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Last week, I decided I might as well try out Wynn's new tapas bar for late lunch/early dinner. And hey, why not? It's already getting plenty of buzz, and I was already getting mighty hungry.

And thank goodness curiosity got the best of me! I started off with the Buttermilk Bleu Cheese plate, and a lovely wedge of this stinky goodness arrived alongside toasted mini baguette slices and fig jam. For some reason the bread was at room temperature, but that was quickly forgiven when I dove into the heavenly cheese paired with that divine fig jam! (Hopefully in the future, they'll make fresh batches of toasted baguette.)

From there, it was onto my pizza... err, "flatbread". I ordered a flatbread with roasted tomatoes, micro mozzarella, and capers, which is essentially a pizza margherita shaped more rectangularly, and with the basil swapped out in favor of the capers. But whatever one wants to call it, one can't deny it's tasty! The roasted tomatoes were sweet and tangy, and the salty capers provided the perfect balance and contrast. The mozzarella melted beautifully, and the crust was soft and pillowy. This definitely makes my "Top 10 Pizzas in Vegas" list!

And of course, what good meal is complete without dessert? I couldn't help myself, I HAD to try the "American Chocolate Cake". And trust me, if you're the kind of American who can never get enough chocolate, you'll LOVE this cake! Actually, there's a thin layer of cake hidden somewhere in the midst of a beautiful mold of chocolate mousse covered in chocolate ganache. Oh, and there's a thin chocolate wafer cookie on the bottom. And oh my, this was so perfectly sweet and smooth and creamy that I had to hold myself back from licking the plate!

All in all, my first impression of La Cave was quite strong. Again, my one small quibble was over the toasted baguette, and that can easily be fixed. Otherwise, the food was terrific, service was strong, and I'll likely be back soon to take full advantage of their wine list!

Style: Elegant Casual
Price: $$$
Open: Lunch & Dinner

The Rating
---

Food: 4.7 (out of 5)
Service: 3.0 (out of 3)
Ambiance: 2.0 (out of 2)
Overall: 9.7 (out of 10)
Outstanding, Destination Eating!

Cosmo: A Catalyst Is Born?

The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas is set to open tonight, and The Strip is ablaze with chatter, rumors, optimism, concern, and so much more. John Unwin keeps saying he sees this not as a "book end" or "end of an era", but rather as "a new beginning". Could this be true?

John Curtas seems to be especially hopeful.

Interestingly, most of the big name restaurants: Jaleo, Comme Ça, Milos, and Scarpetta are located on the third floor, and essentially adjacent to each other as they wrap around the main escalator. The effect is striking (and very convenient for galloping gourmets), and gives the appearance of the ultimate, up-, upscale food court — featuring the best of Spanish, French, Greek and Italian cuisines.

None of them are especially intimate (a quick scan puts each at around 175 seats), but if the hype and reputations of these places is to be believed, the only place in America that comes close to such an intense concentration of gourmandia is the Time Warner Building in the Big Apple. [...]

You heard it here first: The Cosmopolitan is going to shake the gastronomic ground in the High Mojave Dessert, and the whole world is going to feel the shudder.

A few days later, Mr. ELV wrote this stunning critique of how most casinos do business with your tummy (and your wallet).

What we’ve been thinking about is the difference between hotels who own their own restaurants (à la Wynn/Encore, Caesars, Bellagio, et al) and those who four- wall (i.e lease out) their food service operations (à la Venetian/Palazzo, Palms, and the soon-to-open THE Cosmopolitan).

We won’t bore you with all the pros and cons of one business model versus another, but suffice it to say the big, corporate hotels who dominate the Strip (and who own their own restaurants), are always teetering on the brink of reverting to the Vegas of old — when hotel gourmet rooms and coffee shops were almost indistinguishable from one another — and whatever personality the dining spots had was confined to cossetting the guests and getting them back to the tables quickly. Food wasn’t the point back then, the illusion of luxury was, and metronomic operations were the rule. [...]

The trouble is, big, corporate gambling palaces aren’t that good at food service operations. What they’re good at is running hotels and casinos. If any of them were being honest, they’d admit they don’t even want to run restaurants, they just have to. Since 1994, when MGM made the first big splash with Emeril, Mark Miller, and the original Charlie Trotter, the hotels have been locked in the restaurant equivalent of a cold war arms race — each feeling it has to top the other or risk being forever marginalized by the upscale tourist market they are all aiming to attract.

So how might Cosmo change this? Well, they're not even trying to take full control of the restaurants. They're simply leasing out their restaurant spaces, thereby allowing the chef-owners to have more control over their operations than the typical casino restaurant overseen by F&B (the casino's food and beverage department, that is).

Might this be a model for Strip casinos and restaurants in the future? We'll have to wait and see. Venelazzo and Palms have done this for some time, but it hasn't seemed to catch on yet.

Honestly, there are upsides and downsides to splitting the casinos from the restaurants. We'll see where that goes.

But believe it or not, that may not be the biggest change coming with Cosmo. Mike Dobranski could hardly hide his excitement on Monday about this. While he originally expressed doubt about Cosmo being all that much of a game changer, he's been warming up to it since.

Finally the resort us fans of food have been waiting for, The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas, will be open to the public on Wednesday, December 15th at 8pm. If I had to pick the three or four restaurants I’m most looking forward to, I’d have to tip my hat to both of José Andrés’ places with Jaleo and especially China Poblano, David Myers’ Comme Ca (pronounced ‘come saw’ for We-The-Frenchy-Deficient) and Block 16 Hospitality’s (folks that brought us LBS Burger) Holsteins.

Jaleo is Chef José Andrés’ Spanish tapas emporium, so obviously the tapas slut in me is excited about that. For me, the most exciting restaurant in the building is Andrés’ China Poblano, and original concept of his that will be a Mexican / Chinese fusion. Sounds good to me…and oddly logical considering I don’t know of that combo being done anywhere else. While Comme Ca is an import from Los Angeles, it will be nice to have an accessible, centrally located French Brasserie in town to go to. Last, but not least, Holsteins will be the requisite burger joint, but feature natural and organic ingredients and house-made sausage.

While most of Cosmo's "new" restaurants are either LA or NYC imports, they are from chefs who have not been exposed to Vegas before. And some of what they're offering, such as Milos' fine, authentic Greek food, hasn't been experienced here before. Hopefully, we'll be in for good eating.

However, what's even more exciting is that Jose Andres and Scott Conant will actually bring original concepts to Vegas! Andres will open China Poblano this week, which will be a very unique Chinese-Mexican fusion restaurant... Talk about "East Meets West"! Meanwhile Conant will open DOCG, and Italian wine bar and small plates joint that's coming first to Vegas. Not since Steve Wynn hand-picked previously little known chefs to come to Vegas and become culinary superstars (such as Julian Serrano, Alex Stratta, and Jet Tila) have we seen a Strip casino bring such exciting new concepts to town.

For such a long time, Vegas' culinary star-power has relied on New York, San Francisco, and Paris superstar chefs bringing "photocopies" of their restaurants here. And while just this alone has helped improve fine dining here, it's nonetheless no substitute for real, homegrown talent. Thankfully we are starting to see more homegrown talent emerge, but they've yet to achieve the sort of "critical mass" of attention that celebrity superstar chefs regularly get when they import more restaurants here.

Maybe one day in the not-too-distant future we'll finally see this happen, but in the mean time it's encouraging to see some new culinary ideas shine through at Cosmo.